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Good ole Dayz
By Wayno
Surfing hit the southland like a tsunami, it was a fad, not a sport.
My big sister's boyfriends surfed, now that I look back, I admit
they were total kooks, but at the time, being eight years older
than me they seemed like gods.
My sister visited the islands in 1958 with her boyfriend's family
(heavily chaperoned I imagine). They stayed at the old Royal in
it's heyday, before statehood and skyscrapers. Her surfing instructor,
was supposedly the best on the beach, his name was Rabbit. Out in
the waves, 2-3 foot Queens, there was nobody out, except for boyfriend
Harold and his little brother. Rabbit instructed as the budding
blonde cheerleader from the southland balanced precariously on the
front of his thirteen foot aircraft carrier. All in a days work
for the king of the beach.
Big Sis had taken about five rolls of film of her trip and, needless
to say, at the ripe age of eight I was very impressed. I wanted
to do it too, surf, the islands; swimming four or five laps of the
pool underwater was nothing, 1958 was when I caught the fever. Finally
three years later, my dad broke down and rented me a board up at
the Huntington Pier, cost me five bucks at Jacks new shop on the
south side of Main St and 101. Later on, when I turned 12, the old
man went half-halfs on a New Velzey, I Paid Dial Finance six bucks
a month out of my paper route money and just about the time it was
paid off someone stole it (trust a surfer). So with the $19.95 "South
Bay" surfboard kit , including instructions, buckets, brushes
& squeegee I launched my career as a garage surfboard manufacturer.
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